A Women Sit-in

President Ali Abdullah Saleh is expected to make a media presentation very soon. He is also expected to be back in Yemen very soon. Many Yemenis are eagerly waiting for this moment. "When he's back, we'll celebrate!" say the women present at a women sit-in near al-Saba'een Square.

The initiative for this sit-in was taken by Najat, a young woman who is a member of the ruling party GPC and a professor at Sana'a University (see picture). Soon after Saleh was flown to Saudi Arabia to be treated for the wounds he got during an assassination attempt in the beginning of June, Najat got the idea that women should also voice their support for the President. From four women this gathering has now grown to many hundreds of participants.

There are older and younger women. Some chew qat, some of them bring their children. And the national TV now broadcasts daily a couple of hours from this location.

Umm Saleem is an old lady who loves the President dearly. "He has done so much for us - he has built schools, parks, roads. We don't want our country to be destroyed; we want stability and security. That's why I'm here."

Umm Abdul-Karim totally agrees. "My father and grandfather were great sheiks. But I was only allowed to study Quran - nothing else. Thanks to our President, my two daughters are now doctor and dentist. They've been given the opportunity to study and work."

"This is the first time we speak up," she continues. "We never went to the Friday demonstrations. But when our President was injured in the attack... we were really shocked. It went too far. Even in Palestine they don't attack mosques. So now we feel the need to show our support to the President. Inshallah he'll come back soon."

Salsabil, a young educated woman, is angry that Ali Abdullah Saleh is blamed for everything that goes wrong. "He's only a human being," she says. "When Saleh came to power, there were a lot of tribal problems in Yemen. He solved these. Then, in the 1990s, the economy of the whole world deteriorated. Then came the unification of North Yemen and South Yemen and in 1994, the domestic war to retain this unity. Of course this was bad for the economy of the country. Recently, we had the conflict with the Huthi's in the north. So many difficulties, which is why the country can hardly move forward. The past few months have had a negative impact as well. We cannot blame Saleh for all this."

"Moreover, we live in the 21st century. We have something that is called 'elections'. Isn't that democracy? The only way out of the problems are elections."

At the end of the afternoon, the women gather to shout some slogans. The TV camera records. "The people... want... Ali Abdullah Saleh!" after which the crowds disperse.

Great Times for Mechanics

These are great times for mechanics since the petrol from the black market (both the 'white' and the red petrol) sooner or later makes your car break down. This, because of additions to the petrol, like water, oil, or thinner. Owners of older cars, like myself, are lucky because the car won't stop working on the spot. New cars, however, are so sensitive that they do often stop working on the spot.
Yesterday, for example, a taxi-driver stranded without petrol. A helpful hand gave him just five liters of black market petrol to get to a gas station to line up. He only got as far as the end of the street and needed $150 to fix his car!
But what to do? There's no petrol at the petrol stations these days. Lines are growing and growing, but nobody knows if or when anything might arrive. It's a big problem.

Arabic Names

Here, people use their first name, then their father's name, then their grandfather's name (etc.), and then their family name, although it's often shortened to the first two names only. So, for example, your name could be Ali Ahmed Hassan al-Yemeni, or simply Ali Ahmed.

Women do the same, so don't be surprised to see a name like Fatima Ibrahim or so.

People with children often call themselves 'the father of so-and-so' or 'the mother of so-and-so', 'so-and-so' normally being the eldest son. E.g. Abu Sameer and Um Sameer.

The funny thing is that many people in the west are unaware of this. That's why President Ali Abdullah Saleh is usually called 'Saleh' in the media, while this is really his grandfather's name.

On the other hand, Um Sameer may be called 'Um', thinking this is a first name, while this actually simply means 'mother (of)'.

A Muslim in Holland

This is mainly - but of course not only - for the anonymous who posted a comment to my last blog post.

It's already a long time ago - before I came to Yemen. I spent a few months in Holland as a Muslim, wearing long skirts, wide blouses with long sleeves, and a headscarf. In those days, a native Dutch Muslim was exceptional and so people generally presumed I was from Turkey. This led to a communication barrier which was - according to my mood - funny or irritating.

I remember, for example, riding on a bus one day. The middle-aged man next to me started pointing to the sky, and in baby-language he said something like, "Look! Clouds. Maybe rain."
He undoubtedly tried to be nice to the 'Turkish immigrant' next to him and to not hurt his feelings, I played the game and mumbled some baby-language back.
"In your country sun," he said.
"Yes, my country sun," I replied.

At the supermarket, the cashier never even tried to say a word to me, and even the friendly phrases "Thank you. Have a nice day" were omitted.

One of the most hostile encounters I had at the bank. I had called the bank to ask about exchanging some foreign currencies. They told me to come. But when I proceeded to the teller, I was harshly told that they didn't exchange anything.
"But over the phone I was told..."
I was ignored. As simply as that. I was unwelcome in my own country.

Surely, over the course of fifteen years many things have changed. There are more Dutch Muslims now and people have heard more about Islam. But still I hear that life for Muslims is not always easy. Difficulties getting a job because of a headscarf, difficulties in raising your kids the way you want. Certain political leaders who try to spark hatred towards Muslims.

Although no place on earth is perfect, I prefer being a foreigner in an Islamic country to being a foreigner in my native country.

Comments are welcome!

Picture (Waiting for Petrol)

Another day of waiting for petrol...
The petrol stations are guarded by armed policemen these days to ensure a safe process of filling up your car!

Price Increases

Today the exchange rate of the dollar is 237 rials. The reason for the fluctuation is, according to the money changer, either Obama or Ali Abdullah Saleh. Whatever the news is has an effect on the rate. I don't really get the point on how this works, but well.

What we do notice is that prices keep going up. To give you some examples:
0.25 liter of pasteurized milk now costs 90 rials (was 70 last week).
One candle is 50 rials (was 20).
10 kg. of sugar costs around 2,800 rials (used to be 2000)
750 ml. of mineral water is now 60 rials (was 50 last week)
A bus ride is already 50 rials...

This is difficult for many people, especially because prices don't normally go down again after they've been increased.

Summer Vacation

The summer vacation is near; end-of-year exams for primary school students are held this or next week, depending on the school. Higher classes need a little more patience since their exams follow the young ones. And what do Yemenis generally do in the summer vacation? Nothing special. Some may pay a visit to their village in the countryside for a little while, but many people don't have the opportunity to go anywhere. Going abroad is something that only the upper-class can afford, and almost all Yemenis have never left their country. Isn't it like this in most places around the world (except the west)? Some parents send their kids to a place to study Quran or English. for a couple of hours a day. However, most kids simply play a lot or help their parents in and around the house.

Report from Saba News

I had to smile after reading this report from Saba News, and that's why I publish it here.

Official source denies president's family move to Abu Dhabi

[12/June/2011]
SANA’A, June 12 (Saba)- An official source has dismissed as baseless the false claims and void fabrications published by the Al-Quds Al-Arabi newspaper on the family members of President Ali Abdullah Saleh moving to the UAE capital Abu Dhabi.

The source confirmed that none of the president's family members - whether sons, grandsons, or others - have left Yemen.

The source considered that the news published by the aforementioned newspaper is the result of the hallucinations of the newspaper's reporter, who did not find anything to report to the newspaper so he created false and untrue stories that are a figment of his imagination.

Divorce in Islam

Like everywhere else, divorce rates in Yemen are increasing.

Some people ascribe this phenomenon to the fact that the newly-weds often don't know each other. Some boys only see the girl's face for the first time on their wedding day. However, this is a local custom and not an Islamic one, for in Islam the boy who proposes marriage to a girl is allowed to see her. Moreover, this custom has existed for a long time, so it'd be strange to ascribe the increasing divorce rates to it.

Others say that divorce nowadays may be caused by women working outside the house without a financial need to do so. She may, therefore, not be a good housewife, or the husband may get jealous. On the other hand, highly-educated women may ask for a divorce sooner than their uneducated sisters because they are able to provide for themselves. You could hardly find highly-educated women in the past.

Whatever the reasons may be, let me discuss in short how divorce works in Islam. The husband can divorce his wife simply by saying, "You are divorced," or something similar. He can still make this undone, though, if he feels he acted wrongly or hastily. Within three menstrual periods, he can take his wife back without the need for a new marriage contract or dower. This is the case after the first two times he pronounces divorce. After the third time, the couple is divorced irrevocably.

What many outsiders don't know is that the wife can also request divorce, but, unlike the husband, she must have a good reason to do so. A good reason could be, for example, that her husband doesn't spend on her, that he behaves in an un-Islamic manner, or simply that she can't stand him. If the husband agrees to her request and divorces her, the divorce occurs. If not, she can go to court and have a judge separate them. This is called khul'a. The wife should give back her dower in return for an irrevocable divorce.

Daily Life (Fridays)

Friday is the Eid of the Muslims. Until recently, it used to be a quiet day for most Yemenis. This was before they had to drive from their homes in the country to the capital Sanaa or their own city for some sort of demonstration.

It is sunneh (i.e. a good Islamic practice) for men to take a shower on Friday morning, wear clean clothes and some perfume, and then go to the mosque at noon (this is not sunneh, but obligatory) to listen to the sermon of the imam and pray in congregation.

Many Yemenis appreciate a special lunch on Friday, with meat or bint-as-sahn, some kind of pastry with honey. After that, they often meet at qat-chews.

But although Friday is like Eid, this doesn't mean that one can't work. People who are their own boss, such as shopkeepers, bus drivers, or builders, often work at least half the day. For government employees, both Thursdays and Fridays are weekend, except for teachers, who work on Thursdays, too.

Gunshots out of Joy

Last night we were woken up by gunshots that came from each and every direction; from very close-by to further away. It lasted for about two hours in a row. I didn't quite understand this chaotic shooting until I was called by a friend. I was told that news had reached us that the surgeries of the President in Saudi Arabia had been successful and that these shots were to express the joy of the population!

Vreugde-Schoten (in het NLs)

Gisteravond laat werd ik wakker geschudt door geweervuur, even na half elf 's avonds. Het kwam al gauw uit alle richtingen. Pistolen, mitrailleurs - dichtbij, verderweg. Ik keek uit het raam en zag roodgekleurde kogels alle richtingen uitschieten.

Natuurlijk dacht ik dat een algehele oorlog was uitgebroken. Maar ook leek het zo ongecontroleerd dat ik het niet echt begreep. KAH-BOEM! TATATATATA! Het hield maar liefst twee uur aan - aan een stuk.

Er was uiteraard geen electriciteit om de radio te beluisteren, dus ik besloot dat doorslapen de beste optie was. Rond twee uur 's nachts werd ik wakker gebeld door een kennis, die dacht dat ik me vast zorgen maakte en uitlegde wat er aan de hand was.

"De operaties van de president zijn geslaagd en hij is van de intensive care af. De mensen vierden vanavond feest."

Vierden FEEST?!

Tja, typisch Jemenitisch als je erbij nadenkt. Er is geen huishouden zonder wapen in dit land dus iedereen kon gezellig meedoen. Zelfs de vredelievende zoon van een vriendin zei later dat hij zijn vader's pistool maar eens had uitgeprobeerd.

Sommige buren waren van schrik naar de kelder gevlucht, terwijl anderen al qat-kauwend van het 'vuurwerk' genoten hadden. En mij gaf het de gelegenheid om mijn persoonlijke 'paniek-meter' eens af te lezen. Viel best mee.

Tips for a Life Without Electricity

No electricity means no fridge. But you can cool water easily by wrapping a mineral water bottle in a piece of cloth, wet it, and put it in an open window where the wind blows, preferably on the north side of the house. Within an hour or two it's refreshingly cool to drink.

Of course, you shouldn't cook more than you need for a meal, since the food will go off quickly without a fridge.

A real old-fashioned oil lamp gives more light than candles. Just make sure you don't use it in the bedroom (because of the smell), or have a small window open for fresh air.



I nearly forgot... always put the little box of matches in the same place so that you don't have to look for them with your torch with nearly flat batteries...

And... sleep early and get up early, too!

Power Cuts and Petrol

We had, to our big surprise, two days of electricity - with only minor power cuts (minor means a couple of hours at a time, a few times a day).
It was almost too much; I checked all the websites on the Internet I needed to check, did some laundry, recharged my cell phone, the kids watched cartoons, and the water heater heated up. After all that we felt we could do without again for a bit :) ... And indeed, last night around 6:45 pm, it went off again - and it stayed off. Marib again.

What we do have today is petrol, though. Loooooong lines, obviously, after more than a week without, but hey, no problem! Pure, pinkish-red petrol for only 1500 rials per 20 liter!

Nederland Sluit Ambassade Sanaa (in het NLs)

Bericht van de Wereldomroep:

DEN HAAG (ANP) - Het ministerie van Buitenlandse Zaken sluit de Nederlandse ambassade in de Jemenitische hoofdstad Sanaa met onmiddellijke ingang. Het departement doet dit ,,in verband met de verslechterde veiligheidssituatie in Jemen, en in de hoofdstad Sana’a in het bijzonder", staat er op de site van het ministerie.

Het ministerie van Buitenlandse Zaken heeft dit in nauw overleg met EU-partners besloten.

In Jemen verblijven momenteel 44 Nederlanders. ,,Zij zijn reeds door de ambassade over dit besluit geïnformeerd. De afgelopen weken was hen al meerdere malen dringend geadviseerd het land op eigen gelegenheid te verlaten'', zegt het departement.

Juist vandaag probeerde ik de ambassade te bellen voor een reactie op de situatie hier, maar het antwoord apparaat meldde simpelweg: "De ambassade is momenteel gesloten. De openingstijden zijn...." Moeten ze dus nog even aanpassen! Ook het telefoonnummer voor noodgevallen stond uit. Het lijkt er dus op dat alle NLse ambassade-medewerkers inderdaad allen vertrokken zijn.

Een Bezoek aan het Postkantoor (in het NLs)

Ik ging naar het postkantoor om m'n telefoonrekening te betalen.
"Wacht even, we moeten de generator nog starten" zei een employee. Hij reed de generator op wieltjes naar buiten.
"Ga maar even zitten" wees hij me toe. Dat deed ik. Het bankje wankelde vervaarlijk en een andere employee onderdrukte een grinnik.
De generator werkte wonderwel, maar de computer wilde niet starten. De employee dook onder de tafel, en vijf minuten later deed 'ie het.
In tussentijd bekeek ik het postkantoortje wat beter. Heerlijk primitief, met oude tafels en stoelen voor de employees. Een deur met de tekst "verboden voor onbevoegden" stond wijd open. Een jongetje van een jaar of acht, waarschijnlijk de zoon van een van de employees, zat naast een man achter het loket. De meeste employees droegen traditionele ma'awaz en thobes en waren, als altijd, erg vriendelijk. Hun vermoedelijke chef zat achter een leeg buro met zijn mobiele telefoon te bellen.
Gezellig. Relaxed. En ik kon de gedachte niet onderdrukken dat dit zo moest blijven. Dat een nieuwe regering, onder leiding van wie dan ook, dit soort plekken niet moet veranderen in modern-uitziende steriele openbare gebouwen onder het mom van 'vooruitgang'. Vriendelijke, hulpvaardige, menselijke ambtenaren... dat is pas iets om te koesteren. Dat de vloer duidelijk aan een veegbeurt toe was, mag wat mij betreft dan best door de vingers worden gezien.

NO Petrol (2)

(picture of one of the many not-working petrol stations in Sana'a)

Last week, in my blog post with the same title, I wrote that the lines at the petrol stations were very, very long. But at least, there was a little hope that you could get a few drops of petrol. This, I'm afraid, has changed.

This morning I roamed the streets of the city from right after fajr prayer. I must have driven past a dozen-and-a-half petrol stations, but none of them had any petrol. None of them!

Some of these petrol stations did have long lines of cars waiting, though. "It may come," was the explanation. Some taxis and mini-buses had no petrol left to drive around, so they had no choice than to wait. Many cars were abandoned. They had been there since yesterday afternoon, they said.

At another one, I heard that some people had already been waiting for two days, sleeping in their cars.

Isn't this ridiculous? What does the opposition think to benefit from this cutting off roads? The President surely has enough petrol to keep his cars going. They only target the poor population.

But... there is a black market. Pick-up trucks with barrels of petrol that are poured into 20-liter containers with the help of a small piece of hose. For twice as much as you would have gotten it at the petrol station.

After some searching, I found the place where several pick-ups stood, surrounded by lots of cars. I didn't quite trust the quality of the petrol, though. It was white instead of pinkish-red. I wasn't the only one who was surprised.
"This is from Marib," the explanation was. "Petrol that comes from al-Hudeidah is red and from Marib white." We were still not convinced but had no choice, really. Someone helped pouring the petrol into my tank while I was holding a funnel made of half a mineral water bottle, splashing a nice bit over my hands. It smelled a bit like thinner that is used for paint.

Whatever it was, the car was filled up and still worked well, mashallah!